(This contribution is translated from here)
Ondřej Berkus “Princesa Azul” – Review
Watch case has a diameter of 40 mm (without crown) and is made of lightweight and durable titanium. The thickness of the case is 11.5 mm, which makes this appear a rather thin watch. The case features a classic round shape and surface finish is made with a soft frosting. Advantages of titanium cases reflect primarily in the low weight of the watch – 62g, and secondly their suitability for allergy prone wearers who can not tolerate steel watches. There is a sapphire crystal on the caseback which allows you to view the movement.
Movement is a Swiss ETA 2836 with automatic winding, power reserve of 40 hours, 27 jewels and frequency of 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz).
The regular appearance of the nickel base and bridges, however, did not coincide with the aesthetic requirements of Ondrej Berkus and therefore he visually modified the according to his ideas. The rotor is replaced by a new rotor made of titanium and is decorated with guilloche work. For its proper function a titaniu rotor has to be fitted with brass weights, which, however, is hidden underneath. The movement in its basic version offers also display of time with hour, minute and seconds hands, as well as the day and date. But the atter was not used in this watch as the date-stamp window would interfere with the guilloche dial.
My impressions of the watch:
I like watches with a diameter of 40mm. In my opinion it is a size that is extremely versatile and suits most wristy. This watch is also relatively thin, so that the case does not interfere at all with your shirt or cuffs. Watch crown does not interfere with smooth and elegant lines of the case, yet is just big enough for easy use. Considering the reasonable size of the case and the pleasant weight of this watch it is no surprise that this watch really does not wear heavy or catches much of your attention until you look at it. And that is something to watch for!
Glossy blue dial is decorated with a technique called guilloching, this is a rather demanding technique, which we see mostly on selected pieces of very exclusive brands. It is a series of ornately engraved lines forming a pattern. A large area round the dial, and its blue color result in the perfect decoration. Nothing to disrupt the elegance of the dial. Only the hour indices in the form of raised discs were fitted with luminous paint. The face of the watch is complemented with simple rectangular polished hands and a blue seconds hand. The time display can be read even in the dark. The date window was dropped and the lack of it gives the watch a simple yet elegant look.
Princesa Azul is at first sight an easy to read watch. However, upon closer inspection it shows an interesting face and perfectly crafted case. I should mention the leather strap which is 22 mm wide and tapers to 20mm at the buckle. This dimension is currently very popular.
A few words in conclusion:
Reviewing an independent watchmaker’s watch is always a pleasant job. People are always looking forward to something new and different. The watches are not exactly the same as others. ” Princesa Azul”, in my opinion, is an excellent watch. It is understated, but the case is very well finished, and the most impressive feature is the fully ornate guilloche dial, which is a key element of the whole watch. Distractions are reduced to a minimum and the watch as a whole is simple yet more than you need.. In my opinion, the size of this watch can be worn by men or women.
If you really like this watch called the “Princesa Azul” from Ondrej Berkus (I really like it a lot), you still have a chance to buy it.
According to my latest information this timepiece is for sale, inquires can be made via email.