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After Baselworld: Patek Philippe reference 5320G Perpetual Calendar with vintage retro charme

After Baselworld: Patek Philippe reference 5320G Perpetual Calendar with vintage retro charme

Patek Philippe presented 25 new watches this year at Baselworld.  Honestly, that is a lot.  So it was quite impressive to sit in the room with dozens of journalists from all the known magazines, newspapers and weeklies and specialty publications.  The room was huge, yet it was still crowded.  After an initial speech by the German Patek Philippe president Monsieur Michot, we were allowed to look, touch and feel.  A large round table was showing all the new editions, from ladies watches, chronographs and Nautilus and Aquanauts to the newest Perpetual Calendar in white gold.

Patek Philippe’s history goes far back in time.  They created their first perpetual calendar watch in 1925.

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This brings me to the watch I want to show you and tell you about.  Of all the watches on the table, this was the one leaving a lasting impression on me.  Not that I want to diminish the other timepieces, they were equally amazing, but the new Perpetual Calendar reference 5320G was definately special.  For several reasons.

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At first glance, the watch is striking you with its vintage aura.  The dial has a beige tone with white day and month windows.  The dial is a lacquered creme colored dial.  Some people complain about this, but I think it is just perfect.  Would it be better with beige windows?  I am not sure, and Patek Philippe may be able to answer this question?  Personally, when I looked at the watch during the event, I did not even notice the white windows.

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The whole dial has raised arabic numerals giving the dial a depth of view and making you want to take a closer look what is going on with the dial.  The design of this watch with two day and month windows goes back all the way to 1941 including the moonphase with date indication.  It has been part of Patek Philippe’s history.

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The dot on the left is a day and night indication while the white dot is indicating the the leap year (which would be number “4”).  Overall, I find the symmetry of the dial very eye pleasing.  Combined with the “vintage patinaed” beige dial, this is a great choice by Patek Philippe and I imagine this watch will be a huge success.

lugs

The stepped lugs add to the vintage feel of the watch and give it a quite unique face. These three tiered lugs were first used in reference 2405 which was made in the mid 1950s.  Stepped cases and lugs were quite common in the 1940s and 1950s.  Later on, you would see less and less.

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The size of the case is a very comfy 40mm.  And that brings me to how comfortable this watch is to wear.  A watch that wraps around your wrist like a second skin you cannot feel.  Despite its white gold case, it did not feel heavy.  And definately not nose heavy.

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Interestingly, the buttons to set this watch are located between the lugs and close to the lugs.  These buttons allow you to set all the calendar functions.  It may sound complicated, but once you hold the watch in your hands and do it once, you are all set.

 

I am taking these technical watch details from the Patek Philippe homepage to save you the time to browse over:

  • Mechanical self-winding movement
  • Caliber 324 S Q
  • Perpetual calendar
  • Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures
  • Date by hand
  • Moon phases
  • Sweep seconds hand
  • Lacquered cream dial, gold applied numerals with luminescent coating
  • Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, fold-over clasp
  • Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
  • Water resistant to 30 m
  • White gold
  • Case diameter: 40 mm

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The movement details:

  • Mechanical self-winding movement (automatic winding)
  • Caliber 324 S Q
  • Perpetual calendar with day/night indication
  • Diameter: 32 mm
  • Height: 4.97 mm
  • Number of parts: 367
  • Jewels: 29
  • Power reserve: Min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
  • Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
  • Balance: Gyromax®
  • Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
  • Balance spring: Spiromax®
  • Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

I am curious to see maybe a rose gold version of this same watch next year?  However, this white gold version is a perfect understatement for a true connaisseur who knows what he has on his wrist without letting everybody else know.

 

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