Baselworld 2017 was much more exciting than all the news may make you want to believe. Yes, there were less exhibitors, there were a lot of rumours about the industry and a lot of statistics. Nevertheless, it was not only exciting to have the opportunity to view so many beautiful watches, but interesting to see how many brands are progressing and growing despite all the negative talk in mainstream media.
Tudor for one hit me with some amazing new timepieces which even speculators did not anticipate on the internet before Baselworld.
As Baselworld unfolded, the hashtag “Borntodare” took off. The watches presented by Tudor achieved a huge buzz, not sure if even more than those created by the mother of Tudor?
First, let me take a look at the new Tudor Heritage Black Bay S&G (Steel and Gold, Rolex calls this Rolesium, but the gold links in the center of the bracelet are not made of massive gold, so Rolesium would not be accurate).
My first thought looking at this timepiece was: wow, what an eyepleasing eyecatcher, a combination from vintage looks with modern execution.
The new Black Bay S&G comes on a steel/gold bracelet with an additional nato strap. The case is a contemporary 41mm in size, the lugs on the case have the “Rolex-typical” fase which you know from vintage Rolex sportswatches. The crown is golden and the writing on the dial has a golden coloring as well. On vintage Tudors this was called “gilt” in the 1960s.
The calibre MT5612 has an additional date function now. The vintage inspiration on this watch comes also from the 60th anniversary of Tudor divewatches. The early Tudor divewatch was reference 7923 which is ultimatively super rare nowadays and fetches anything above 100000 USD.
Unfortunately, I do not have pictures of the nato strap, however, the nato strap is made in France by a 150 year old company that produces it based on old “Jacquard techniques”. On another note, the vintage style leather strap looks quite nice on this watch as well, although my preference is clearly the steel/gold bracelet. Wearing this new Black Bay is feeling great on the wrist, the watch is not too heavy and just sits very comfortably, but that is something people who know Tudor and Rolex are accustomed to.
The movement is COSC certified and has a 70 hour powerreserve. The powerreserve is good enough for you to leave the watch on your desk for 2 days and wear another watch before switching back. The watch is waterproof to 200 meters or 660 feet, so this watch can truly be used for diving, even serious diving.
This watch is a much more affordable diver compared to the Rolex steel/gold Submariner at about half the price. For half the money, you get a great looking timepiece with a manufacture movement. The only thing missing is the loupe…
Details of the Black Bay S&G:
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Unidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 60-minute graduated matt black anodised aluminium disc, gold markings
Manufacture Calibre MT5612 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Approximately 70 hours
Yellow gold screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodised aluminium winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch
Additional fabric strap with buckle included in the box